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cheese

November 16, 2018

EU Court Rules Taste Can’t Be Copyrighted. Will Tech Someday Change That?

Can taste be copyrighted?

According to an EU court, the answer is no (or at least not yet).

At least that’s how they ruled this week in a court battle between two cheese companies. The fight was over whether the taste of a spreadable herb-flavored cheese spread was a copyrightable creation. One company, Levola, argued that another company by the name of Smilde had copied the taste of its product, a cheese named Heksenkaa, thus violating its copyright. The Court of Justice of the European Union ruled against Levola, saying taste – at least today – is not copyrightable.

The reason for their decision rests on the belief that unlike other forms of artistic expression such as literary, visual or cinematographic work, “the taste of a food product cannot be identified with precision and objectivity.” Instead, they argue, taste is much more subjective, based on an individual’s experience, their age and eating habits, as well as the environment in which the food is consumed.

Fair enough. There’s no doubt that each person tastes food differently, and the environment –  including everything from temperature to the altitude in which it’s consumed – has an impact on how food ultimately tastes.

But could technology change that? It seems that maybe, just maybe, the court left that door open.

From the court’s public statement (italics my own):

“Moreover, it is not possible in the current state of scientific development to achieve by technical means a precise and objective identification of the taste of a food product which enables it to be distinguished from the taste of other products of the same kind.”

In other words, the court seems to be saying that while the world hasn’t developed the technology to precisely and objectively measure taste yet, they’re not ruling out that it eventually could happen and, if it did, they might want to revisit the idea of taste as copyrightable work.

There’s no doubt researchers are trying to get there. Whether it’s work on biosensors that more accurately replicate the tasting ability of the human tongue, or research on digital olfactory sensors that provide a more multidimensional understanding of smell by factoring in “temporal, spatial, mechanical, hedonic, and contextual correlations,” we are quickly gaining a better understanding of taste through technology.

The reality is measuring taste is tough, in part because taste is not only experienced through multiple senses, but also through the filter of each person’s history and preferences, and changes depending on the context of environmental factors such as air pressure, elevation, and temperature.

But here’s the thing: all this is true of other forms of artistic expression. Movies, for example, are multisensory experiences that are consumed and interpreted by each person through a filter of their own preferences, education, and experiences.  There’s also research that shows that  external environmental factors could impact and could change how people consume things like music.

All of which leads me to believe that the only difference between these other expressions of art and the taste of food is the ability to measure them accurately. But as technology advances, there’s a good chance that could change, and when it does the court might just rule the taste of cheese – or any other artistic expression in the form of food – is copyrightable work.

June 12, 2017

Kickstarter Entrepreneurs Ride the Popularity Wave of Probiotic Foods

Probiotics are a budding segment of the food part of the crowdsourcing world. While most new efforts are focused on pickles, fermented sodas and kombucha, a team of Slovenian Kickstarter veterans are showcasing the wonders of probiotic cheese.

Kefirko Cheese Maker comes on the heels of the successful 2015 launch of Kefirko, a device that makes homemade kefir. Kefir is a fermented milk drink made with special grains that act as a fermenter/starter. The process can be laborious done in a traditional manner. The kefir is extracted from the grains by hanging a cheesecloth-like bag over a shallow bowl, allowing the liquid to separate from the starter. In recent years, this fermented beverage, which originated in the Caucasus Mountains, has grown in popularity with a renewed focus on healthy eating and the role of probiotics.

The team of Marko Borko and Andrej Glažar, with backgrounds in engineering and design, have extended the value of their kefir maker with their new probiotic cheese maker. The new appliance makes probiotic cheese from the kefir created by the Kefiroko or any other store-bought or homemade kefir. Beyond probiotic cheese, consumers can use the cheese maker to create mozzarella, mascarpone other non-probiotic varieties using milk that has been which has to be curdled with rennet or lemon juice.

There is no waste in the process which starts with pouring the kefir into the cheese maker and allowing it to strain into the attached glass bowl. The company says the whey liquid that results from the kefir-to-cheese process I is very rich with proteins, primarily of α-lactalbumin and β-lactoglobulin, bovine serum albumin and immunoglobine. It also contains vitamins and minerals and a very low level of fat. When whey is derived from kefir, it does not contain lactose, because it is already gone (99 %) during fermentation of kefir.

The length of the fermentation process determines the type of resulting cheese. The company says that fermenting overnight will result in a creamy style cheese while allowing the fermentation to go for one to two days will yield a semi hard cheese. When the cheese reaches the desired taste and consistency, users can flavor it with herbs, spices, oils or roasted vegetables.

The Kefirko Cheese Maker comes with a recipe book which also offers alternative uses for the device which includes tips on how to use the appliance to make tea, iced coffee and even almond milk. The company says it does not know whether the cheese maker will work to create nut-based cheeses, made with pureed soaked and peeled nuts instead of kefir.

As of June 9th, the Slovenian company has exceeded its “all or nothing” goal of $15,000. Some 1,740 backers have contributed more than $91,000. The company’s stretch goals include a larger jar and a spring-loaded lid to enhance the fermentation. At the same time, Borko, Glažar, and their team are introducing a new and improved version of their original kefir maker. According to their Kickstarter site, the new model has an easier-to-grip lid and improved airflow. They also added a Scrapper – a tool for mixing kefir grains during straining to make sure they easily separate from kefir drink. Also, by covering the hole on the Kefirko lid with the Scrapper the straining of kefir also becomes more practical and fast. Depending on pledge amounts backers can get the cheese maker, the newer kefir maker or both products. Delivery of the cheese maker and Kefirko 2 is Dec. 2017.

Make sure to check out the Smart Kitchen Summit, the only event about the future of food, cooking and the kitchen. Also, make sure to subscribe to get The Spoon in your inbox. 

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