Just over a year ago, Steve Ells, the founder of Chipotle, opened Kernel in New York City—a vegan restaurant concept featuring a large robotic arm in the kitchen to assist in food preparation.
Given Ells’s pedigree, Kernel received significant attention from news outlets, with many speculating whether it represented the beginning of widespread robotics adoption in restaurants.
However, this speculation was short-lived. A year later, Kernel closed, replaced by a sandwich shop serving roast beef and other traditional sandwich staples—essentially, more meat and fewer robots.
This pivot marks a notable shift for Ells, who just last fall described his automation-heavy restaurant as “the future for the restaurant industry.” Yet by December, Ells had expressed frustration and was already planning a reboot. The revamped concept, now called Counter Service, completely changes the original premise.
Why did Ells shift from viewing robotics as central to restaurants to abandoning the idea entirely within a year? Company COO Tom Cortese, who spoke at The Spoon’s CES Food Tech conference in January, outlined some challenges in an interview with Expedite:
The logistics of installing and maintaining a highly sensitive robot are considerable, Cortese says. Employees need to be properly trained to interact with it, and it introduces a whole new set of safety rules beyond those of a typical restaurant kitchen. Then there’s the challenge of New York real estate:
“The subsurface of some of these floors were built in 1910… now I’m bolting a sensitive piece of robotics to it, and the floor shifts over time. That really messes up a lot of things,” he says.
While Cortese didn’t explicitly mention it, another potential issue was likely the restaurant’s overtly robotic appearance. Ells himself admitted as much in a Gizmodo interview, noting he might have gone “a bit cold” with the initial concept and suggested a need to “warm things up” in future iterations. Evidently, that meant removing the giant Kuka robotic arm.
Ultimately, outside novelty concepts such as Cafe X’s robotic coffee shop, consumers appear uncomfortable with prominent industrial robotic arms dominating open kitchens in casual dining settings. Such robots seem jarring compared to purpose-built food-making robots like Sweetgreen’s Infinite Kitchen or Picnic’s pizza robot.
Ells’s decision to introduce meat to the menu also reflects broader market realities. Despite a decade-long focus on vegan and alternative proteins in food innovation, the majority of Americans remain meat-eaters. While restaurants benefit from offering vegan options, exclusively vegan establishments currently face challenges in attracting broader audiences.
By removing robots and incorporating meat into the menu, Ells is pivoting towards a more traditional concept and betting that the success of his new venture is determined by something the pioneering founder knows something about: the quality of the food itself.
