In case you haven’t heard, Starbucks is trialing animal-free milk in the Seattle market. No, we’re not talking Oatly or another plant-based milk, but a milk with cow milk-identical proteins made in a lab.
The alt-milk is from Perfect Day, a company that uses precision fermentation to create its proprietary β-lactoglobulin animal-identical milk protein. The company’s protein, which received GRAS approval from the FDA last year, has primarily been sold to consumers in the form of ice cream (and soon cream cheese), but not in the form of a milk product. However, this move could signify that one could be on the way.
The company created a special 2% “barista-blend” version of its alt-milk especially for the Starbucks trial. Starbucks is currently trialing the milk at two locations in the Seattle market, Bellevue (a city east of Seattle) and Renton (south of Seattle).
Since I live in Seattle, I decided to head on over to Bellevue and see how precision-fermented milk tasted in a cup of Starbucks coffee.
When I walked into the coffee shop, one of the first things I saw at the counter was a sign that said: “Try Your Favorite Beverage With Animal-Free Milk.” The sign said this animal-free milk is lactose-free (but does contain milk allergens). The sign also had a QR code which, when scanned, brought up a survey page on my phone titled “Perfect Day Milk Customer Questionnaire.” The page gave a brief description of this new milk and asked questions like “What questions do you have about “animal-free” milk? and “Should Starbucks offer animal-free milk at all of our stores?”.
Interestingly, the questionnaire didn’t ask how the milk tasted compared to cow or plant-based milk. To figure that out, I ordered two drinks: a tall caramel macchiato with animal-free milk and a tall caramel macchiato with regular 2% milk.
When the drinks arrived, they were essentially identical, except that the Perfect Day milk drink had a “DF” on the label (which, the barista explained, stood for “Dairy-Free”).
The reason I ordered a macchiato was, outside of it being a pretty tasty beverage, I wanted to see how precision fermented milk foamed when steamed compared to cow milk. When I took the lid off the drinks, it was clear it foamed up just fine, as you can see from the picture below (DF milk drink is on the left, cow milk drink on the right):
The real test, however, would be how it tasted. And after tasting both drinks side by side, I can say that this version of precision fermented milk tasted exactly like cow’s milk. The foam was just as, well, foamy, and the actual milk taste in the dairy-free version was not discernably different than that of cow’s milk. In fact, from a taste and experience perspective, the two drinks were identical.
Which, of course, is the goal.
If Starbucks and Perfect Day are using this trial to determine if they should make this milk more widely available, I expect a wider rollout may soon be on its way. Outside of the environmental benefits of precision fermented milk, it’s easy to see how offering a milk without lactose and absent potential other health concerns of factory-farmed dairy could be a big winner.
That said, I imagine the biggest challenge for Perfect Day and Starbucks will be figuring out a way to message it to customers. When I asked the cashier what “animal-free milk” is, she did a decent job describing it: “It’s supposed to mimic 2%, but it’s made in a lab, so it’s like very eco-friendly,” she told me. “But it still has milk protein in it, which makes it not dairy-free, but lactose-free.”
Again, decent, but my feeling is that some consumers might bristle at the term “made in a lab.” I know Perfect Day has been working on messaging their product, and while they’ve made progress, I would suggest dropping “lab-grown” as a descriptor. Maybe something like “brewed” or other terms borrowed from beer or other fermentation-driven beverages since, after all, companies like AB InBev are already putting their brewing skills to work in making animal-identical proteins.
If you live in the Seattle market, I would suggest you head on over to Bellevue or Renton and order an animal-free coffee drink yourself and let us know what you think.
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