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This week, alternative protein startup Black Sheep Foods’ plant-based lamb made its debut in San Francisco restaurants. The launch is a big step for the Black Sheep team, which wants to offer more variety to plant-based meat eaters.

“Our first product is lamb because it’s both alien and familiar in America,” company co-founder Sunny Kumar told The Spoon this week over Zoom. “Everyone knows about lamb, but no one really eats it at a high cadence.”

Kumar points out a few reasons for relatively low lamb consumption in the U.S. For one thing, lamb and mutton popularity plummeted when World War II GIs returned home, having lost their taste for the gamy, canned meat they had had to eat abroad. Then there was the influence of Lamb Chop, the adorable host of a 1990s PBS program for preschoolers. (“As these kids grew up, they would be like, ‘I don’t want to eat lamb, this was one of my favorite characters on TV,’” says Kumar.) And of course, there’s the general guilt factor of eating a baby animal.

Black Sheep wants to decouple the taste of lamb from some of the negative cultural connotations in the U.S. market—both by taking the actual lamb out of the picture, and by making a great-tasting product. To do that, the team had to figure out how to reproduce the meat’s flavor using plant-based ingredients.

Unlocking the taste of game

Kumar says that he and co-founder Ismael Montanez had an “aha” moment while working together at Finless Foods. “We realized that the taste of an animal really comes from what it’s eating, and how that food is processed by the animal itself,” he says.

The team ultimately came up with what Kumar calls the company’s secret sauce: A class of compounds called branched chain fatty acids, which account for the gamy flavor of lamb. After that, there were the hurdles of building a reliable supply chain and getting FDA approval for the ingredient.

“You can’t go for regulatory approval until you know the levels of the compounds you want to use, and the levels of the compounds are directly dictated by the texturing,” says Kumar. “And so you have to understand what you’re putting in, and as you add a little bit more fat or a little bit more water, you have to understand how those changes affect each other.”

Though the regulatory process was long and complicated, Kumar expects the team to enjoy a certain amount of competitive insulation as a result, making the investment in research and FDA approval worthwhile.

By unlocking the flavor of lamb, Black Sheep has been able to create a product that stands out among other plant-based meat options. Moving forward, Kumar says that flavor is one of the key elements that Black Sheep wants to focus on developing and producing in-house. The company currently works with a manufacturing partner to produce the branched chain fatty acids that create that gamy flavor—but, according to Kumar, they plan to take on more of the ingredient production internally over time.

The lamb launch strategy

Black Sheep has tested its formula in consumer panels, and judging by the results, Kumar expects the restaurant launch to be a success. “So far, the reviews are highly positive,” he says. “Some people have told us, ‘I don’t eat a lot of lamb, because I don’t like some of the notes in it.’ But the cool part about building it from the ground up is that we don’t have to add those negative notes—we only add the positive, gamy elements.”

With Mediterranean restaurant chains like Cava growing in popularity, Kumar sees plenty of room for more restaurant partnerships in the future. The team is tentatively planning to introduce products in grocery stores by the end of 2022. But first, they’re focused on ironing out the flavor and texture of their consumer products.

“We bought a small extruder and we’re going to get some learnings on it,” says Kumar, “but we’re going to be limited by the output of that machine. Hopefully with the next round of funding, we’ll be able to unlock a little bit more capacity.”

When The Spoon interviewed Black Sheep in 2019, the company was planning to launch its products in Asia. Kumar says that the team shifted its strategy due to the relative ease of co-packing and sourcing supplies domestically. After expanding in the U.S., they’re eyeing Europe and the U.K., where North African cultural influences have boosted the popularity of lamb.

Plant-based possibilities

Down the line, Kumar says that the team’s dream is to create plant-based, formed foods like burgers, nuggets, and sausages—“but with flavors that are insane.”

Ethics and environmental impacts are on the team’s mind. But beyond reacting to those concerns by replacing common frozen aisle products with similar-enough alternatives, Black Sheep wants to delight consumers with unique tastes. They hope to win over flexitarians by offering the chance to enjoy flavors they wouldn’t otherwise try.

With the plant-based space becoming increasingly competitive and crowded with similar products, the strategy makes sense. As Kumar says: “Why eat chicken nuggets when you could have duck nuggets with hoisin barbeque sauce?”

Photo credit: Nicola Parisi